In the homes of the Kazakh nomads, the warm season's yurts are adorned with an array of colorful textiles. The floors are covered with vibrant felt Syrmaqs, while lattice walls display the intricate handiwork of embroidered wall hangings, known as tus kiiz. The creation of these beautiful textiles, as well as other embroidered pieces and woven ribbons, is the domain of the girls and women of the community.
Tus kiiz play an essential role in Kazakh households, as they are exhibited on the walls of yurts during the summer and occasionally in winter residences. Besides adorning their own homes, women craft these wall hangings as family heirlooms or bestow them as gifts to newlyweds, often including a personalized embroidered message to the couple within the complex design. The year of creation and the craftswoman's name are traditionally woven into the patterns. It is common for each family member to have a preferred tus kiiz hanging near their sleeping area.
The process of creating these remarkable pieces is seamlessly integrated into daily life. Sections of cotton fabric are adorned with patterns either drawn freehand or stenciled using flour. These designs may be further emphasized with milk, a crayon, or soap. The fabric is then stretched and attached to a metal or wooden frame, and a hooked needle, known as a biz, embroiders the pre-drawn pattern with chain stitches. Once one section is completed, the fabric is realigned on the frame to embroider the next portion.
The designs featured in tus kiiz are inspired by nature, showcasing stylized patterns resembling flowers, ram's horns, and even animal organs, such as the liver, kidney, and heart. The patterns are typically mirrored and densely arranged to ensure no space is left empty. The main embroidered area is bordered on three sides by a red velvet frame. The fourth side's absence of a border has been attributed to either being hidden behind the bed or symbolizing that the craftswoman has completed her life's work and is prepared for the end.
The time required to complete a tus kiiz varies, with some women dedicating a few hours daily and taking up to a year to finish, while others work more intensely and complete the project within a month. Many older women recount the impact of spending long evenings embroidering by candlelight on their eyesight. To aid with the labor-intensive embroidery process, experienced artisans often involve their daughters or daughters-in-law, imparting the skill of crafting these textiles. Multiple women may contribute to a single tus kiiz, their individual embroidery styles and pattern techniques discernible in the finished product.
The resourcefulness of Kazakh women is evident in their textile production. During the soviet union, materials were in short supply, leading to the use of threads repurposed from existing fabrics or garments in tus kiiz creation. Tools were similarly crafted from recycled materials. The practical approach and innovative spirit of these women have resulted in the production of astounding works of art, despite the limited resources and practical constraints they face.